Victorian Jewelry History
The Victorian era, spanning from 1837 to 1901 during Queen Victoria’s reign, was a time of social change, industrialization, and significant cultural shifts. Jewelry from this period reflects these transformations, as well as the emotional and societal values of the time. Victorian jewelry is rich in symbolism, innovation, and craftsmanship, and remains highly collectible today.
1. Early Victorian (1837-1860): The Romantic Period
The first phase of Victorian jewelry, known as the Romantic Period, saw an emphasis on sentimental and personal adornments. During this time, Queen Victoria’s marriage to Prince Albert in 1840 had a major influence on the designs and themes of jewelry.
Themes and Symbolism: Jewelry was often inspired by love, mourning, and nature. Hearts, flowers, and symbolic motifs such as the snake (representing eternity) or the anchor (representing hope) were popular.
Materials: Jewelry was crafted from gold, silver, and precious gemstones like diamonds, garnets, and emeralds. Brooches, lockets, and rings were particularly common, often designed to hold a lock of hair as a sign of affection.
Innovation: This period also saw the introduction of the “jet” stone, a black, organic gemstone derived from fossilized wood. It became particularly popular for mourning jewelry, such as brooches and necklaces, due to its somber tone.
2. Mid-Victorian (1860-1880): The Grand Period
The Grand Period coincided with Queen Victoria’s mourning for Prince Albert, who passed away in 1861. This period saw dramatic changes in the design and use of jewelry.
Themes and Symbolism: While mourning jewelry became more prevalent during this time, it was also a period of excess, with grandiose designs featuring larger gemstones and more intricate detailing. Floral motifs, mythological themes, and Gothic Revival elements were incorporated into the jewelry.
Materials: Along with the use of gemstones, this era marked the increase in the use of Etruscan Revival gold work and enamel for intricate detailing. New techniques, such as granulation (small beads of gold fused to a surface) and wirework, allowed for more detailed designs.
Designs: Large brooches, lockets, and earrings were popular. A growing trend for the parure set—matching sets of jewelry including necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets—became the height of fashion.
3. Late Victorian (1880-1901): The Aesthetic Period
In the later years of Queen Victoria’s reign, as she began to emerge from her period of mourning, the jewelry styles became lighter and more intricate, with a focus on artistic and aesthetic designs.
Themes and Symbolism: The Aesthetic Movement, which emphasized beauty, elegance, and nature, influenced jewelry design during this period. Butterflies, flowers, and birds were common themes, reflecting the more relaxed and ornate preferences of the time.
Materials: There was a return to lighter, more wearable materials. Platinum was introduced, which allowed for finer settings, while diamonds remained highly valued. Semi-precious stones like opals, turquoise, and pearls also gained popularity, often used in Art Nouveau-inspired designs.
Innovation: The Late Victorian period was known for the “Garland Style”, where jewelry was designed with soft, flowing forms, often featuring dangling elements. Cameos and intaglios (engraved gemstones) were also common, with detailed images of mythological or natural subjects.
4. Victorian Mourning Jewelry: A Unique Tradition
One of the most distinct and poignant aspects of Victorian jewelry was mourning jewelry. Following Prince Albert’s death, Queen Victoria’s intense mourning became a national sentiment, and the fashion for mourning jewelry became widespread.
Materials and Designs: Mourning jewelry often featured jet, onyx, and black enamel as a symbol of grief. Hair from the deceased was frequently incorporated into the design, either woven into brooches or necklaces, or placed inside lockets. Skulls, crosses, and other somber symbols were common in these pieces.
Evolving Trends: As the 19th century progressed, mourning jewelry began to incorporate lighter materials, and more intricate designs emerged, signaling the end of an era of intense mourning by the end of the century.
Victorian Jewelry Design
Victorian jewelry design was characterized by complexity, ornamentation, and an eclectic range of influences. The designs were often symbolic, with each piece carrying a deeper meaning or connection to the owner’s personal life, family history, or emotions.
1. Natural Motifs
Victorian jewelry designs often featured natural elements, such as flowers, leaves, birds, and insects. This was largely due to the Romantic movement’s emphasis on nature and the sublime.
Floral designs were especially popular, symbolizing love, beauty, and the fleeting nature of life. Jewelry was adorned with intricate floral motifs, often crafted from gold or enamel.
2. Geometric and Oriental Influences
As the British Empire expanded, Victorian designers were influenced by the arts and culture of Asia and the Middle East. This led to the incorporation of geometric shapes and oriental motifs in jewelry.
The use of filigree and intricate patterns became a hallmark of Victorian design, with some pieces showing clear influences from Egyptian, Chinese, and Indian jewelry.
3. Romanticism and Sentimental Jewelry
Sentimental jewelry was one of the defining design elements of the Victorian era. It was common to see pieces designed with hearts, locks, and keys, which were symbols of love, affection, and fidelity.
Lockets, in particular, were a popular design choice. These could hold portraits or locks of hair, serving as personal mementos.
The use of symbolic gemstones was also significant. For example, garnets symbolized love and passion, while amethysts represented modesty and spirituality.
4. Complexity and Detail
Victorian jewelry often featured intricate and detailed craftsmanship. Designers employed techniques such as engraving, filigree work, and repoussé (a metalworking technique where the metal is hammered into relief from the reverse side) to create elaborate designs.
Victorian pieces could be quite ornate, with layered elements, multicolored stones, and extensive use of enamel to add depth and vibrancy to designs.
5. Use of New Materials
As jewelry became more accessible, designers began experimenting with a wide range of materials. Some common materials included:
Gold: The most common metal used in Victorian jewelry. It was often used in yellow or rose gold shades.
Silver: Popular for pieces such as brooches and rings, especially those intended for the middle class.
Jet: A form of lignite coal, jet became popular in mourning jewelry, and it was often carved into intricate designs.
Diamonds and Gemstones: The wealthy elite would often adorn their jewelry with diamonds, pearls, and gemstones, including sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. These stones were often set in elaborate arrangements.
Victorian Jewelry Styles
The Victorian era, spanning from 1837 to 1901, was a time of significant social, cultural, and technological change. As Queen Victoria’s reign defined an entire era, it also gave rise to some of the most iconic and enduring jewelry styles in history. Victorian jewelry not only served as a fashion statement but also reflected the emotional, social, and artistic currents of the time.
1. The Romantic Period (1837-1850)
This was the early part of Queen Victoria’s reign, characterized by a focus on sentimental and symbolic motifs. Jewelry was heavily influenced by Victorian notions of love, loss, and romance.
Key Features:
Heart Motifs: Often symbolizing love and affection, hearts were frequently featured in designs.
Lockets and Cameos: These personal items were often used to carry portraits of loved ones or small mementos.
Gemstones: Popular stones during this period included diamonds, amethyst, garnet, and turquoise.
Engraved Designs: Jewelry often had engraved initials or phrases, adding a personal touch.
Notable Pieces:
Sentimental Rings: The use of engraved rings to signify love or mourning was widespread. The famous “acrostic ring” featured gemstones arranged to spell out words like “DEAR” or “LOVE.”
Cameo Brooches: Cameos made of shell or coral were highly popular, often depicting mythological figures or historical scenes.
2. The Grand Period (1850-1870)
With the Industrial Revolution in full swing, the 1850s to 1870s saw an explosion of creativity and more intricate designs. The discovery of new materials and gemstones, combined with new technologies like mass production, led to the creation of elaborate jewelry that was both luxurious and available to a wider range of people.
Key Features:
Intricate Designs: More complex and detailed designs became popular, often incorporating filigree work, floral motifs, and motifs inspired by nature.
Gold and Platinum: Gold became the dominant metal for jewelry, often paired with diamonds and other precious gemstones.
Colored Stones: Stones such as sapphires, emeralds, and rubies became more prominent during this period, often set in ornate gold settings.
Notable Pieces:
Choker Necklaces: A significant trend during this period was the choker, a close-fitting necklace made of velvet or metal, often adorned with gemstones or pearls.
Brooches and Pins: Larger and more decorative, brooches and pins were worn as statements of status and style.
3. The Aesthetic Period (1870-1888)
During the later part of the Victorian era, a shift occurred toward an appreciation for the natural world and the exotic. This era reflected a move toward more artistic, less sentimental jewelry designs.
Key Features:
Nature-Inspired Designs: Jewelry began to incorporate motifs such as leaves, flowers, and insects, reflecting the growing fascination with nature and the Pre-Raphaelite movement.
Enamel Work: The use of vibrant enamel became common, adding rich color to the designs.
Eastern Influences: As the British Empire expanded, jewelry was influenced by Eastern aesthetics, with motifs like lotus flowers, dragons, and other symbols from India and the Far East.
Notable Pieces:
Etruscan Revival: Inspired by ancient Etruscan jewelry, this revival included intricate granulation work and gold filigree designs.
Necklaces and Bracelets: The focus was often on intricate chain designs, sometimes featuring gemstones set in openwork designs.
4. The Late Victorian Period (1888-1901)
The final years of the Victorian era were marked by mourning jewelry, as Queen Victoria herself went into a prolonged period of mourning following the death of her husband, Prince Albert, in 1861. This influenced many of the designs of the era, which were often somber and reflective.
Key Features:
Mourning Jewelry: Jewelry made from jet (a form of lignite) or onyx, often featuring black as the dominant color. These pieces were worn to commemorate a loved one’s death.
Symbolism of Death: Pieces often included motifs like skulls, coffins, and weeping willow trees.
Use of Darker Stones: Onyx, garnet, and black enamel were favored during this period for their dark, somber tones.
Notable Pieces:
Jet Cameos: Cameos were still popular, but during the late Victorian period, they were often made from jet, a black material, as a symbol of mourning.
Lockets with Hair: Lockets that contained a loved one’s hair became a deeply sentimental and personal way of remembering the deceased.