Art Deco Jewelry History
Art Deco jewelry emerged in the 1920s, a period of social change, technological advancement, and growing prosperity. The world had just emerged from the horrors of World War I, and people were eager to embrace a new, modern era. The Roaring Twenties was a time of extravagant living, jazz music, and progressive art. The world of jewelry reflected these shifts through the bold, sophisticated designs of Art Deco. Below are key points that outline the history of this iconic jewelry movement:
1. Origins and Influence
Parisian Influence: The term “Art Deco” comes from the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, which showcased modern designs in various forms of art, including jewelry. It was at this exposition that the style was first formally recognized.
Art Nouveau’s Decline: Art Deco emerged as a reaction against the flowing, organic forms of Art Nouveau, which had been popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. While Art Nouveau emphasized nature and curves, Art Deco embraced clean lines and geometric shapes.
Technological Advancements: The era of Art Deco coincided with the rise of industrialization. This period saw advancements in mass production, which made luxurious materials like platinum, diamonds, and enamel more accessible to a broader audience.
2. The Role of Key Designers
Jean Despres: A pioneering French jewelry designer, Despres helped define Art Deco jewelry with his innovative use of geometric patterns and bold, modern forms.
Coco Chanel: While Chanel is best known for her fashion, she also played a key role in the development of Art Deco jewelry. Her simple, yet elegant designs, often using pearls and colored stones, epitomized the elegance of the era.
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari: These luxury jewelry houses were instrumental in popularizing Art Deco jewelry. They were responsible for some of the most iconic and valuable pieces of the era.
3. Cultural Impact
The Jazz Age: Art Deco jewelry is intrinsically linked to the Jazz Age, a period defined by flappers, jazz music, and a sense of freedom. Jewelry from this period often reflected the fast-paced, glamorous lifestyle of the time.
Flapper Influence: The flapper girl, with her bobbed hair, short skirts, and desire for liberation, became a symbol of the 1920s. Jewelry followed suit with streamlined designs, often using bold geometric patterns and vibrant colors to mirror the energy of the time.
4. The Decline of Art Deco Jewelry
The Great Depression: The economic downturn in the 1930s led to a decline in the opulence and extravagance of the Art Deco period. As people could no longer afford luxury items, jewelry designs became more restrained.
World War II: The onset of World War II shifted global priorities and resources, further dampening the popularity of elaborate jewelry designs. After the war, the jewelry industry moved toward more minimalist, functional designs, signaling the end of the Art Deco era.
Art Deco Jewelry Design
Art Deco jewelry is known for its distinct design characteristics. These designs blend sophistication, innovation, and symmetry to create visually striking pieces. Key aspects of Art Deco jewelry design include the following:
1. Geometric Shapes and Symmetry
Sharp Angles and Clean Lines: One of the most defining features of Art Deco jewelry is its emphasis on geometric shapes such as rectangles, squares, triangles, and circles. These shapes create a sense of order and symmetry, moving away from the flowing, asymmetrical forms of previous periods.
Chevron Patterns: A popular motif during the Art Deco period, chevrons often appeared in bracelets, necklaces, and brooches, contributing to the streamlined aesthetic of the era.
Chevron and Zigzag Patterns: This design incorporated the chevron motif, creating bold, angular lines. Often seen in enamel and metalwork, these patterns enhanced the modernity and dynamism of the pieces.
2. Use of Bold Colors
Precious Stones: Art Deco jewelry featured an array of vibrant gemstones, including diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and onyx. These stones were often paired together in bold contrasts to create dramatic effects.
Colored Enamel: Enamel was used extensively in Art Deco jewelry to add color and texture. Bold hues such as red, black, and blue were popular, often outlined in gold or platinum to enhance the designs.
Tints and Pastels: In addition to vibrant colors, Art Deco jewelry sometimes incorporated soft pastels such as lavender, pale pink, and mint green, providing a sense of elegance.
3. Materials and Techniques
Platinum and Gold: Platinum became the metal of choice during the Art Deco period due to its strength and ability to hold diamonds and other gemstones securely. Gold, especially white and yellow gold, was also commonly used.
Diamonds and Gemstones: Diamonds were a hallmark of Art Deco jewelry, prized for their clarity and sparkle. Other gemstones like jade, coral, and turquoise were also featured prominently, often in striking contrast to the diamonds.
Lacquer and Enamel: Enamel techniques became highly refined during this period, adding color and texture to many pieces. Additionally, lacquer was often applied to metals to create a glossy, modern finish.
Clever Craftsmanship: The use of innovative techniques like pave setting (where small diamonds are set close together to create a continuous sparkle) and invisible settings (where gemstones are mounted in such a way that the settings are hidden) added to the allure and sophistication of Art Deco jewelry.
4. Influence of Modern Art
Cubism: One of the dominant influences on Art Deco jewelry was Cubism, an avant-garde art movement led by Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque. The movement’s fragmented, abstract approach inspired many jewelry designers to experiment with fragmented shapes and forms.
Futurism: The Futurist movement also impacted Art Deco designs, which emphasized speed, technology, and the modern machine age. Jewelry designs began to mirror these themes, incorporating streamlined shapes and dynamic angles.
Egyptian Revival: The discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 sparked a fascination with Ancient Egyptian art and design. Art Deco jewelry often incorporated hieroglyphic motifs, scarabs, and other Egyptian symbols, reflecting this cultural influence.
5. Innovative Jewelry Types
Clip Brooches: These distinctive brooches, designed to be clipped onto clothing, became popular during the Art Deco era. They often featured intricate patterns, geometric shapes, and colorful gemstones.
Bracelets: Flexible bangles and cuff bracelets adorned with geometric patterns were popular during this time. Many featured diamonds and other precious stones arranged in repeating geometric designs.
Necklaces: Art Deco necklaces often took the form of statement pieces with dramatic, elongated designs. These could include long chains adorned with symmetrical patterns or large, artfully designed pendants.
Earrings: Drop earrings, featuring elongated geometric shapes or dangling diamonds, were popular choices. They frequently complemented the bold designs of Art Deco dresses and hairstyles.
Art Deco Jewelry Styles
Art Deco jewelry encompasses a wide range of styles, each with its own distinctive appeal. While all Art Deco designs share a focus on modernism, symmetry, and luxury, several distinct styles emerged during this period.
1. The Egyptian Revival Style
Inspiration: Sparked by the 1922 discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb, the Egyptian Revival style made a significant impact on Art Deco jewelry. This style embraced motifs such as hieroglyphs, scarabs, and the use of lapis lazuli and turquoise stones.
Design Features: Jewelry pieces often featured bold, symmetrical patterns, including necklaces with geometric shapes and bracelets adorned with Egyptian symbols.
2. Streamlined Modernism
Futuristic Designs: The streamlined modernism style was inspired by the desire to depict speed, machinery, and the modern world. Jewelry from this style often featured smooth, polished surfaces and sleek, simple lines.
Materials Used: Platinum, diamonds, and other high-end materials were commonly used to create pieces with minimal ornamentation but maximum visual impact.
3. The Art Deco Floral Style
Floral Motifs: While Art Deco is known for its geometric shapes, floral motifs still played a role in jewelry designs. However, the flowers were more stylized, with angular petals and symmetrical patterns that reflected the modern aesthetic of the time.
Contrasting Colors: The use of contrasting colors, such as black and white diamonds or vibrant colored gemstones against platinum, was a key feature of this style.
4. The Jazz Age Glamour Style
Flapper Influence: Jewelry during the Jazz Age often reflected the carefree spirit of the era, with long necklaces, dangling earrings, and bracelets that exuded glamour and sophistication.
Bling and Excess: This style favored larger, more extravagant pieces, often adorned with diamonds and colored gemstones. The emphasis was on making a statement, with many pieces designed to sparkle in the light.
5. The Deco Motif Style
Geometric and Architectural: Inspired by the architectural designs of the time, the Deco Motif style featured jewelry with repetitive geometric patterns, such as stepped designs, chevrons, and zigzags.
Strong Lines and Bold Design: These pieces often incorporated strong lines and were characterized by their symmetry and balance, conveying a sense of modernity and structure.
6. The Art Deco Minimalist Style
Simple Yet Elegant: Some Art Deco jewelry favored minimalism, with clean lines and subtle decoration. These designs were characterized by their sleek, sophisticated elegance, often using white diamonds set in platinum to create a refined, understated look.
Influence of the Machine Age: The minimalist style was a nod to the industrial age, where machines and technology influenced every aspect of life, including jewelry design.