Vintage costume jewelry has long been cherished for its unique style, rich history, and the craftsmanship behind its creation. Over the years, these pieces have evolved into valuable treasures that speak to an era of fashion and luxury, yet they were originally designed to be affordable alternatives to fine jewelry. As a collector, hunting for vintage costume jewelry can be a thrilling pursuit, filled with discovery and the joy of finding something rare and beautiful. Whether you’re just beginning your journey into the world of antique jewelry or are a seasoned collector, understanding which pieces to seek can make all the difference.
In this article, we explore 5 iconic categories of vintage costume jewelry that are not only aesthetically striking but have also garnered significant value over time. These pieces represent the best of past trends, bringing with them a sense of nostalgia and artistic craftsmanship. We will delve into their historical significance, how to identify authentic examples, and tips on starting your own collection. So, let’s step back in time and uncover the most sought-after vintage costume jewelry that is worth collecting.
The Fascinating World of Vintage Costume Jewelry
What Is Vintage Costume Jewelry?
Costume jewelry, often referred to as fashion jewelry, emerged as an affordable alternative to fine jewelry made from precious metals and gemstones. Instead of diamonds, sapphires, and gold, costume jewelry was crafted from base metals, glass, and imitation stones. Despite their humble origins, these pieces were designed to mimic high-end jewelry, making them accessible to a broader audience. By the 1920s and 1930s, costume jewelry had become a mainstay in fashion, with iconic designers like Coco Chanel, Miriam Haskell, and Trifari leading the way.
The term “vintage” in this context refers to pieces that are at least 20 years old, but the most prized costume jewelry is often much older. Vintage costume jewelry has become an art form, with collectors seeking out pieces from renowned designers and jewelry houses that define specific time periods. Each piece tells a story of the social and cultural trends of its era, whether it’s the opulence of the Art Deco movement or the playful, whimsical designs of the 1960s.
1. Miriam Haskell Jewelry: The Epitome of Elegance
A Legacy of Artistry
Miriam Haskell was a pioneer in the field of vintage costume jewelry. Founded in 1926, her jewelry line quickly became known for its exceptional quality and intricate craftsmanship. Haskell’s designs combined vintage elements, such as filigree and intricate beading, with modern techniques that ensured each piece was a work of art. What set her apart was her ability to create statement pieces that were luxurious yet affordable, often using glass, pearls, and brass, materials that allowed her to keep costs low while maintaining a high level of sophistication.
Haskell’s jewelry was heavily influenced by the Art Deco and Art Nouveau movements, featuring ornate, flowing designs with floral motifs and elaborate color palettes. Many of her pieces incorporated beads, rhinestones, and freshwater pearls, which added a luxurious, textured effect.
What Makes Miriam Haskell Jewelry Special?
Collectors value Miriam Haskell jewelry for several reasons:
- Craftsmanship: Haskell’s attention to detail is unparalleled. Each piece was hand-crafted, and many featured intricate beadwork and filigree metalwork.
- Timeless Elegance: Haskell pieces often feature delicate motifs, floral designs, and beautiful use of colors that transcend time, making them highly collectible.
- Historical Significance: Miriam Haskell’s jewelry was worn by Hollywood stars and socialites during the 1930s and 1940s, contributing to its desirability and value today.
How to Spot Authentic Miriam Haskell Jewelry
When searching for vintage Miriam Haskell jewelry, look for the signature “Miriam Haskell” tag, often found on the clasps or backs of pieces. Genuine pieces are typically marked, and this signature is a sign of authenticity. The craftsmanship should be intricate, with no signs of mass production. Be sure to inspect the metalwork, beads, and stones for signs of wear or damage, as these elements contribute to the value of the piece.
2. Trifari: A Staple of Mid-Century Modern Design
The Rise of Trifari
Founded in 1925 by Gustavo Trifari, Trifari jewelry has become synonymous with high-quality vintage costume pieces. During the mid-20th century, Trifari was one of the largest and most popular costume jewelry manufacturers in the United States, known for its innovative designs and attention to detail. Like Haskell, Trifari produced pieces that were affordable alternatives to fine jewelry but with the same level of sophistication.
One of the most iconic design periods for Trifari was the mid-century modern era, during which the brand collaborated with renowned designers such as Alfred Philippe. Philippe, a former Cartier designer, brought a new level of glamour and artistry to Trifari pieces, creating bold, sculptural designs. This period also saw the creation of some of Trifari’s most famous collections, such as the “Alfred Philippe” creations and the “Crown Trifari” mark.
Why Trifari is a Must-Collect Brand
- Innovative Designs: Trifari’s pieces often pushed the boundaries of what was considered costume jewelry, creating pieces that looked like fine jewelry.
- Mid-Century Modern Influence: Trifari’s use of clean lines, geometric shapes, and innovative materials made the brand a key player in the fashion of the 1950s and 1960s.
- Collectible Collections: Collections like the “Faux Coral” series or the “Floral” designs from the 1950s are highly sought after by collectors today.
How to Identify Trifari Jewelry
Authentic Trifari jewelry can typically be identified by its hallmark, which may read “Trifari,” “Crown Trifari,” or “Alfred Philippe for Trifari.” These markings are often found on the back of the piece, near the clasp or inside the design. Look for pieces that feature bright, glossy finishes and bold, sculptural shapes. The pieces should also have substantial weight to them, as Trifari was known for using quality materials.
3. Schreiner: High-End Costume Jewelry with a Luxe Appeal
Schreiner’s Distinctive Designs
Schreiner jewelry is considered by many to be the epitome of luxurious costume jewelry. Founded in 1939 by New York-based designer Joseph Schreiner, the company became known for its distinctive and high-quality designs. Schreiner’s pieces were characterized by bold, lavish settings often featuring layered and intricate designs. Unlike many costume jewelry designers, Schreiner focused on creating pieces that resembled the intricacies of fine jewelry but at a fraction of the cost.
What truly set Schreiner apart was his ability to combine complex elements, such as rhinestones, glass beads, and metals, into unified and intricate designs. The brand’s pieces are often large and imposing, yet incredibly detailed. Many pieces incorporated innovative techniques like invisible settings, where stones were set in a way that made the metal completely hidden, offering a more polished, seamless look.
Schreiner Jewelry: Why It’s Highly Collectible
- Exquisite Craftsmanship: Schreiner was known for using high-quality materials and for his impeccable craftsmanship.
- Unique Techniques: Many of Schreiner’s pieces feature unique design techniques, such as “rivet” settings or multi-layered construction, that are difficult to replicate.
- Statement Pieces: Schreiner jewelry is known for its bold and extravagant designs, making it highly collectible among those who appreciate luxurious costume pieces.
How to Recognize Authentic Schreiner Jewelry
Authentic Schreiner jewelry is often marked with the “Schreiner” signature, which can be found on the back of the clasp or inside the design. The hallmark typically reads “Schreiner, New York” or simply “Schreiner.” Authentic Schreiner pieces are also characterized by their substantial weight, intricate design, and use of high-quality rhinestones and beads.
4. Coro: Timeless Elegance and Innovation
The History of Coro Jewelry
Coro, founded in 1901 by Emanuel Cohn and Carl Rosenberger, was one of the largest and most influential costume jewelry manufacturers of the 20th century. Known for their technical innovations, Coro’s pieces often incorporated elements like thermoset plastics, sterling silver, and even enamelwork into their designs. The brand gained popularity during the 1940s and 1950s, producing pieces that ranged from whimsical to elegant, with an emphasis on quality and craftsmanship.
Coro’s designs were incredibly diverse, spanning a wide range of styles, from the sleek, modern lines of the 1940s to the vibrant, playful designs of the 1950s. The company was also known for producing high-end lines like “CoroCraft,” which featured more expensive materials and offered pieces with intricate designs.
Why Coro is a Great Choice for Collectors
- Diverse Styles: Whether you prefer mid-century modern or retro chic, Coro’s vast catalog offers something for everyone.
- Innovation: Coro was known for their cutting-edge designs, introducing techniques like “duette” clips, which allowed two brooches to be worn together as one.
- Affordability and Availability: Compared to other vintage costume jewelry brands, Coro’s pieces tend to be more affordable, making it an excellent entry point for new collectors.
Identifying Coro Jewelry
Coro jewelry is often stamped with the “Coro” name or the “CoroCraft” hallmark for more expensive pieces. Some designs may also feature a small “Coro” tag near the clasp or pin back. Be sure to inspect the quality of the materials, as Coro was known for using glass stones, rhinestones, and enamel, all of which should be tightly set and appear well-made.
5. Juliana Jewelry: Rare and Iconic
The Legacy of Juliana Jewelry
Although the identity of the designer behind Juliana jewelry remains a mystery, these pieces have become highly collectible among vintage jewelry enthusiasts. Juliana jewelry was produced during the 1950s and 1960s and is renowned for its bold, vibrant designs featuring large rhinestones, layered stones, and intricate settings. Many Juliana pieces were marked with the term “Juliana,” but some were unmarked, making identification tricky.
Juliana jewelry is characterized by its exuberant designs, which often feature multi-colored stones arranged in complex, eye-catching patterns. The use of layered rhinestones and the heavy use of gold-tone and silver-tone metal work makes these pieces look far more expensive than they actually were at the time.
Why Juliana Jewelry is a Must-Have for Collectors
- Bold and Dramatic: Juliana jewelry is known for its oversized, statement-making designs, perfect for those who appreciate bold aesthetics.
- High-Quality Materials: Despite being costume jewelry, Juliana pieces often used high-quality rhinestones and metals that give them a luxurious feel.
- Rarity: Due to the often unmarked nature of Juliana pieces, finding authentic examples can be a thrilling treasure hunt, making them highly collectible.
How to Spot Juliana Jewelry
Look for distinctive design features such as layered rhinestones, large and vivid stones, and unusual metal settings. Authentic pieces are often unmarked or feature a small “Juliana” tag. The overall weight and intricate design will be key indicators of authenticity, as Juliana jewelry was crafted with a focus on quality.
Conclusion
Collecting vintage costume jewelry is an exciting and rewarding journey that connects us to the past while allowing us to appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship of bygone eras. From the intricate designs of Miriam Haskell to the bold statements of Juliana, each piece of vintage jewelry tells its own unique story. By focusing on iconic brands like Trifari, Schreiner, Coro, and others, collectors can build a curated collection that not only adds beauty and history to their lives but also serves as an investment that can appreciate over time.
As with any type of collecting, it’s essential to do your research, understand the hallmarking systems, and examine the condition of each piece. Patience is key, as finding rare and valuable pieces can take time, but the thrill of the hunt is part of what makes collecting vintage costume jewelry so exhilarating. Whether you choose to display these stunning pieces in your home or add them to your collection as valuable investments, vintage costume jewelry is more than just adornment; it is a window into the artistry and culture of the past.
